Success in sewing garments using sewing machines such as the Juki F300 requires careful attention to pattern details and fitting the pattern first before making any cuts. Patterns are made in different categories; within each category there is a range of fitted sizes and alteration to achieve the perfect fit. When using Juki sewing machines, it is essential to understand how to appropriately fit the pattern to the wearer.
Start With the Right Pattern Size
Patterns are sold in size categories that usually range from XS to XXL or larger. Each size category contains a pattern that will make a garment that fits a range of clothing sizes. These sizes are based on three main body measurements: bust, waist, and hips. Choose the pattern that fits your actual body size as listed on the packet.
Before cutting the fabric to be stitched on sewing machines, measure yourself and document the measurements. Record bust, waist, and hip measurements as well as other important dimensions such as arm length, inseam, and any other body points indicated on the pattern.
Adjust For Finished Garment Measurements
Every pattern designed with a size range that covers multiple sizes has what are called "finished garment measurement" (FGM) lines throughout the pattern. These lines are the different cut lines that can be used depending on the size of the garment being made and the wearer’s actual measurements. The FGM helps fine-tune the pattern to the unique required measurements.
Test the fit by "tissue fitting," or putting the tissue paper pattern pieces on each body part as indicated. Before cutting the pieces to assemble using a Juki F300 or other Juki sewing machines, try on the pattern in its current form. Pin the pieces together at the appropriate FGM marks, then carefully put the pattern on over undergarments to fit.
Tissue fitting is important to ensure the proper lay and fit of shoulders, necklines, and other critical areas in preparation for cutting the fabric. Any additional alterations should be made to the pattern during this stage for the best fit. This may include marking, folding, or repositioning darts, moving seams to make the size larger or smaller in that particular area, and other alterations required to get the perfect fit.
Cut a Muslin
When working with expensive fabrics, the best way to avoid waste is to make a muslin. A muslin is basically a prototype of the pattern, cut from the measured and altered tissue paper pattern to ensure that the fitting has been done correctly. Make any additional alterations to the pattern and the muslin until the muslin fits as desired. Once all pattern alterations have been made, the actual fabric pieces can be cut.
To get the proper fit with any garment made from a pattern, sewists need to take their time and go through each step referenced above before beginning to work at sewing machines. Pattern fitting can be time-consuming; however, it is a necessary step that reduces the chance of mistakes that could ruin the entire project.
When properly fitted, the finished garment should begin to come together perfectly as it is being stitched on Juki sewing machines like the Juki F300. The end result will be a custom-made garment that fits exactly the way it should!