When creating a set-in sleeve on sewing machines like Janome 8200QCP sewing machines, it is important to set the right amount of ease in the sleeve cap. This means creating an allowance of extra fabric that accounts for the area that rounds over the shoulder, making it look professional and fitted. Before making arm coverings with Janome sewing machines, follow these simple instructions so the right amount of ease is set that makes everything fit together perfectly.
Cut the Fabric
To make a correct sleeve with a comfortable ease, the top must be cut with extra fabric. This is why patterns look as though the cap is a little too large. Once the ease is properly fitted into the seam, this extra fabric will look like the normal bend in the garment that fits nicely over the shoulder. Cut the fabric according to the pattern, paying special attention to the triangular notches. These notches indicate the front and back of the sleeve and help in setting the ease.
Measure the Ease
Using a flexible measuring tape, measure the sleeve cap and write down the dimension. Next, pin the two sides together at the shoulder and measure the length of the armhole all the way around. Write down this dimension. Subtract the armhole measurement from the top arm covering measurement to determine the amount of ease, which is usually between 1 and 2 inches for most patterns.
Sew the Arm Covering and Body
Next, stitch the sleeve closed at the underarm seam. Press open the allowance and turn the fabric so it is inside out. Likewise, sew the front and back panels of the garment along the shoulder and side seam. Press open the side allowance. If there will be any darts in the bust area on the garment, they should be created now, while stitching the shoulder and side seams.
Sew An Ease Stitch
Set Janome 8200QCP sewing machines to their basting stitch to create the ease stitch. Sewing on the seam allowance of 5/8 from the edge of the fabric, stitch the arm covering from the first notch on one side to the last notch on the other side. Cut the thread with long tails. Gently pull on the tails when fitting the sleeve cap into the armhole.
Set the Sleeve and Ease
Set the sleeve cap into the armhole and match up the notches to align the arm covering. Pin first at the notches and then continue around the rest of the top, spreading out the bunched ease evenly while doing so. Pin all the way around the armhole to secure the entire sleeve cap.
Sew the Sleeve Cap
Once the arm covering is completely pinned from the cap all the way around to the bottom, slowly stitch using a sewing machine. Begin sewing at the underarm and stitch very slowly, smoothing and spreading the ease as necessary to prevent puckers and bunches. Stitch once all the way around the armhole, then stitch inside of that stitch about 1/1 inch. The end result should be a well-formed sleeve cap with no visible fabric bunches. Once it is set in, pull out the basted ease stitch.
Sleeve caps can be a little challenging to stitch on sewing machines to look properly fitted and feel comfortable. By using this simple technique, anyone creating garments using Janome sewing machines like the Janome 8200QCP should discover how ease-y it is to set sleeves correctly with the right ease!