When sewing garments on sewing machines like the Janome 7318, it is essential to understand the various parts of a garment, then follow the pattern carefully. Jackets can be especially confusing since they include many different parts that must be skillfully cut and stitched together. To help make sewing a jacket easier and less complicated when using Janome sewing machines, use the handy reference guide below.
A sleeve may look simple enough on a finished jacket; however, it is actually composed of many different parts and seams which include the following:
- ââââââSleeve Front - This is the front facing surface of any sleeve on a garment, like a jacket or shirt. It typically consists of one piece that is sewn to the upper and under sleeve so that all seams are at the back of the garment.
- Upper and Under Sleeve - This is the upper and lower portion of the two-piece back of a jacket sleeve. When stitched together using sewing machines, they form the rear sleeve seam.
- Sleeve Cap - This is the top portion of the sleeve where it meets the shoulder on the body of the garment. The cap can be one of the more difficult parts to stitch and requires careful fitting for it to be correct.
- Sleeve Vent - The sleeve vent is a small opening that starts at the bottom edge of the jacket sleeve. Vents typically have one or two small buttons to hold them closed or the buttons may be only decorative in some cases.
- Sleeve Hem - This is the finished edge and is at the very bottom of the sleeve.
Collars can be made in many different ways depending on the style of the jacket. Formal jackets sewn on machines like the Janome 7318 usually include the following parts:
- Upper Collar - This is the part of the collar that fits around the wearer’s neck, separating from the lapel at the collar notch. There is a front upper collar and a back upper collar which combine to create the full collar after the stitching is completed. When correctly sewn, the back collar folds forward to the front of the jacket at the collar roll.
- Lapel - The lapel is the elongated part of the collar that lays flat along the front of the jacket. Lapels vary in length and width depending on the jacket style. The two sides of the lapel overlap at what is called the break point, which may also be higher or lower depending on style.
- Collar Gorge - This is the area where the upper collar and the lapel are joined together at the collar notch. The lapel then points outward from the end of the upper collar.
Jacket Front Parts
The next step in making a jacket is completed by carefully stitching the sleeves, collar, and lapel to the jacket front, which is composed of several parts as follows:
- Jacket Front and Side Front - These are the four main panels that make up the front of the jacket. The side front panels are fitted and join from the side seam to the front panels. The two front panels extend from the side front panels to the jacket center front and front button line.
- Chest and Welt Pockets - Although not all jackets have pockets, most have a chest pocket and some have a flap-covered pocket at the side, called a welt pocket.
- Back Lining - This is the inner lining of the jacket that can be seen from the front. The lining includes a lining pleat to make movement easier and a back facing on the inside of the collar.
Jacket Back Parts
The final step in making a jacket is done by assembling the sleeves and collar onto the rear of the garment to bring it all together with the following parts:
- Armscye - This is the rounded armhole for the sleeve under the sleeve cap where the assembled sleeve parts are stitched onto the garment.
- Jacket Back and Side Back - Like the front of the garment, the main body of the jacket back is constructed from four panels: the two backs and the two side backs. They are seamed together at the center back seam and two side back seams.
- Vent - Most jackets have a split in the back called a vent. It is made at the center back seam, leaving two finished sides that open to allow comfortable movement.
- Jacket Hem - Like the hem on the end of the sleeves, the jacket hem is the final finish that goes around the entire lower edge of the garment. It starts at the front, continues around the back, then to the front again.
With all of the many parts to consider, jackets are a more advanced project to create using Janome sewing machines. It is important for anyone making a jacket on sewing machines like the Janome 7318 to pay attention to the pattern, identify the different parts of the garment, and learn how and where each come together. By working slowly and carefully, all parts should come together to create a lovely and stylish formal jacket!