Creating the perfect garment on the Juki HZL DX7 involves choosing the perfect fabric for the project. Sometimes a fabric has just the right look or feel, yet might be too transparent or too flimsy. Rather than going through the effort of trying to find another option, that almost-perfect material can be underlined to make it more suitable. Anyone sewing clothing on Juki sewing machines can learn the easy technique of underlining and adjust even the finest sheers and laces so they look just right.
What Is Underlining?
Underlining is the technique of lining a top layer of fabric with an underneath, supporting layer of underlining material. Underlining is usually done with cotton broadcloth, batiste, or silk organza, although other fabrics can be used depending on the project and the need. The technique is used for a number of purposes. Garments can be sewn with underlining in specific areas to support fabric or throughout the entire garment for a full cloth lining.
Why Use Underlining?
There are two reasons why anyone might choose to use underlining with their garment: to support finer, more flimsy fabrics and to create opacity where the chosen material may be too transparent. This method of doubling up material layers is also useful in other ways including as a stabilizer or strengthener for fine or loosely woven fabrics, to prevent stretch and distortion, to increase bulk, and to reduce wrinkles. Underlining is also commonly used to reduce the visibility of seam allowances and hand stitching. It is a great way to add a layer of warmth to a more delicate garment.
How Is Underlining Done?
Underlining used for any of the above reasons is relatively easy to do. After pre-shrinking both the main fabric and the lining material to avoid uneven shrinkage later, two copies of the pattern pieces are cut, one from each fabric. Once the pieces are cut out, the lining is aligned on the main layer, pinned in place, then hand basted to the back side of the main fabric. This is an important step, as basting on sewing machines tends to cause the two layers to bunch up. Once the lining has been securely basted in place, the pattern pieces can be sewn on the Juki HZL DX7 like a single layer.
The end result is a garment with the required stability or opacity, good flow and fall of the fabric, and hidden seam allowances, and hand basting. Garments layered with thicker linings to add extra warmth are cozier, with professionally layered fabrics that wear comfortably and stay together.
Useful in many different ways, underlining provides a way to sew garments on sewing machines so the most desirable top fabric can be used even if it needs some support or another layer to add structure or warmth. This method does add another step to garment creation; however, it is a great way to get the expected results from certain fabrics sewn on the Juki HZL DX7. Done correctly, underlining is a technique to help those sewing clothing at home to produce the most beautiful, professional looking, and wearable garments with ease!