Collars are one of the first things that people notice on clothing, so it is important to make them right. You may think that getting professional looking results on garments sewn on home sewing machines like the Juki TL 2010Q will be too difficult. Yet by using the tips below for making great looking collars using Juki sewing machines, your garment can look like it came right off the rack.
Sizing and Cutting the Pieces
Every collar, whether it is curved or pointed, is made from two pieces: the upper collar and the under collar. When cutting out these pieces, follow the pattern carefully regarding grain lines and fabric patterns. Pieces that are improperly cut are obvious once they are assembled with sewing machines.
The upper collar is normally sized slightly larger than the under collar. If your pattern has only one piece, you may have to “slip” your upper collar to increase its dimensions on the three sides other than the neckline by about â -inch. Once you are ready to cut, pin the pieces and account for slipping. Make sure you cut carefully, especially if making a curved collar.
Collars must be slightly stiffer than the rest of the garment. Most call for a light or medium weight fusible woven interfacing on the inside of the under collar only. If you want a little more stiffness, add it to the upper collar as well as opposed to using a heavier interfacing. Cut the interfacing the size of the collar piece minus the width of the seam allowance once you sew it on your Juki TL 2010Q.
Mark the Corners
To get that sharp, straight stitching you want in collar corners, mark the needle pivot points. Measure the corners with a seam gauge and make an "x" where the allowances intersect and the stitching must turn. When you stitch the collar, follow these marks to stitch a precise corner.
Another option is to sew to within one stitch of the corner and make two diagonal stitches to meet the other mark at the same position. This gives more room for the seam allowance on the inside so you do not end up with a bulky tip.
Sewing the Collar
To get precise results when sewing collars on great Juki sewing machines, create them in two steps. Starting in the middle of the collar, sew along one side, make the corner, then stitch the pivot side. Repeat from the center, overlapping the stitching by two or three stitches at the center, then working the other side. Use a shorter stitch length in the corners to reinforce them.
These tips, along with the corner turning tip above, will help you get the most straight and uniform results on both sides of the collar.
Trimming and Finishing the Collar
Once the collar has been sewn, you need to remove as much of the corner seam allowance as possible to reduce bulk. First, trim diagonally across the entire corner to cut off the point of the allowance. Make two more diagonal cuts across the new points the first corner creates. Invert the collar and carefully push out the corners using a pointed tool and a pin to make the corners really sharp. Press the collar flat, then topstitch if it is called for.
Great collars can make or break a garment sewn at home on a Juki sewing machine. Fortunately, making a great collar is pretty easy if you pay attention to the small details. With the tips mentioned above, you should have few problems creating collars that look factory made on personal sewing machines like the Juki TL 2010Q!