So I Have A Serger – What Stitch Do I Use When?

Serger sewing machines are great to have if making clothing is a passion. They can quickly produce strong seams as well as a number of other professional stitches that allows home sewists to create beautiful and professional-quality garments.

Yet sergers can create more than just an overlock stitch, so it is important to know when to use each stitch the machine is capable of producing. Before using a machine like the Juki MO 1000 serger, take a few moments to read about the various stitches that can be created and when they are the most useful.

Overlock and Overedge Stitches

The four-thread overlock is the most common stitch made using serger sewing machines as it creates the most secure seams. Most professionally sewn clothing is seamed using this stitch. It is useful for making strong and attractive interior seams or for creating a finished fabric edge.

The overlock can also be sewn using two or three threads; however, this would not be as strong as the four-thread overlock. The two-thread overedge stitch, a variation of the overlock, is best reserved for finishing edges.  

Flatlock Stitches

The flatlock stitch is made with two threads and is very similar to the overlock stitch. It does look slightly different since there are only two threads used. It is most useful for joining layers of fabric together such as when piecing activewear and swimwear, as it offers a lot of stretch. The flatlock also looks similar to decorative coverstitching that can be done either with sergers that have the knives removed or on a coverstitch machine.

Wrapped Stitches

The wrapped stitch is a variation of the flatlock and is done at the fabric edge. It is similar to the overedge stitch. Like the flatlock, the wrapped stitch has a good amount of stretch, making it a choice edging for activewear and swimwear. This can be done with two or three threads.  

Rolled Hems

Rolled hems can be made on machines like the Juki MO 1000 serger by using either two or three threads. In both instances, the stitching is applied as a finishing stitch since the cut edge of the fabric is encased within the threads to look like it has been rolled. Both options can be used to finish fine or delicate fabrics to prevent fraying and to add an attractive embellishment. The rolled hem is not used for making seams or joining fabric layers.


Chainstitching is another unique stitch that can be made on serger sewing machines by using either two or three threads. It is a simple stitch that is typically used as basting, decorative topstitching, or to make an actual thread chain that extends off the fabric. Chainstitching does unravel easily, so it is not safe to use for seaming.

Sergers are famous for their durable, flexible, and finished overlock stitches; however, there is more these machines can do. Machines like the Juki MO 1000 Serger are useful for creating interior seams, piecing fabric, topstitching, and creating finished edges. To enjoy all the benefits that serger sewing machines offer, sewists should learn how to make and use all the different stitches these machines are capable of creating!

Juki MO 1000 Serger With Jet Air Threading Technology